TCVFD Training

Here is a good video that shows how to use the hydrant assist valve we have on Engine 4

Here is a summary of why we open these valves and when we should close them.

Tank to Pump

We open this because we want water now and it takes time to set up a water supply.  Foremost on our minds  as pump operators is getting water to the firefighters that are making entry. By pulling this valve we immediately have water available. We should close this as soon as we obtain water from a hydrant or other water source.

Tank Fill/Recirculating

The tank fill/recirculating valve is opened right off when we engage the pump. At the beginning of operations it should only be cracked open. This is to prevent the pump from turning the same water, heating up and then damaging the pump. If water is flowing from any discharge the valve can be closed since there is a constant source of cool water in the pump. If you are uncertain to if water is flowing such as if overhaul is going on, then keeping it cracked open is good insurance to keeping the pump cool. If the apparatus has used water from its tank before a water supply was acquired then open the valve to fill the tank. With a full tank we can operate off the hydrant and with our water tank full we have a emergency backup in case our water supply is interrupted.

I signed up yesterday for these courses that were being given at http://www.fdiconlineevent.com and so far I have not been disappointed. It seems they are geared toward larger departments but it seems for every class I take there is something I can learn. David McGrail put on a good class that spoke a lot about standpipe operations and the different standpipe valves that you may run across. In Tega Cay, we are not going to run across a lot of that. I must admit I zoned out a bit there.

He then showed a picture of what most departments carry around on their trucks/engines for high rise packs. Most carry the same exact setup we do: 2 sets of 100′ of 1-3/4″ with a gated wye and an automatic nozzle. Whats wrong with that? I didn’t really have a clue til he explained the biggest issue with using standpipes in high rises is that you will hardly ever get the pressure you will need to operate the automatic nozzles. Let alone overcome the friction loss in the 1-3/4″ line. Imagine a fire on the 20th floor. For each floor there is a rule of thumb that says you lose 5 psi per floor. That right there is 100 psi friction loss due to elevation. It seems obvious if you every actually had to do it but I have never had that experience to draw from. So he explained what Denver does. They carry in 4 high rise packs each 50′ of 2-1/2″ with a smooth bore tip. There are at least 4 guys that deploy that hose. The bottom line is they have water that they can use.

What can we take away from this?

Well for our high rise packs…nothing. We don’t have high rises. Our high rise packs are mainly used for the staked lots we have and the new 4 story town homes. They are best used for apartment lays.

Marine 6

Marine 6 operators, on the other hand, can learn a lot. Marine 6 pumps a lot of water but at low pressure…just like a standpipe. If we deploy lines from Marine 6 they should be larger lines with smooth bore, low pressure nozzles or even a monitor type deployment. Of course we could also use it to supply apparatus with its 5″ discharge. Selecting large lines will help us overcome the friction loss of small lines and selecting low pressure appliances will allow us to pump at obtainable pressures.

It seems the rpm/pressure selector may be one of our weak links with learning Engine 1. If you are like me, you are looking for a knob to spin to regulate the rpm of the engine to get the pressure you want and another set of controls for the pressure relief valve. After going to the Russ School of Pump Operations and watching the video he suggested, I find that once you remember to hit that big green ‘MODE’ button to get the pump into psi mode everything is much simpler. To show you how easy it is compared to the spinning knob with the pressure relief valve lets compare the steps:

1. Put truck into pump – Engine 1, 2, and 4 are all the same. While truck is in ‘Neutral’ flip the switch to shift the engine from drive to pump. Then put truck in ‘Drive’. The ‘OK to Pump’ light will come on.
2. Open Tank to Pump and crack the Tank Fill/Recirculating valves – Again these steps are the same
3. Water is need by the firefighters…yesterday!
4. Increase the rpm of the engine to get desired pressure
   • Engine 1: Push the mode button till display shows ‘PRESSURE’ (see above picture) then push ‘INC’ or ‘DEC’ to the desired pressure.
   • Engine 2 & 4: Turn knob counter clockwise till desired pressure
5. Set pressure relief valve
   • Engine 1: Done…the controls will actually adjust rpm to regulate the pressure even if other lines are shut down other lines won’t notice a change in pressure.
   • Engine 2 & 4: Turn on pressure relief valve then turn knob till valve is off and only turns on if there is a spike in pressure

Hopefully this explanation helps. This of course is the executive summary of how to operate. For more info on how it works check out Class 1 “Captain” Pressure Governor (http://www.class1.com/Main/Products,464,464.aspx)

Pressure governor manufactured by: Class 1

We will be using the red Mazda.